Grainger Market Newcastle

In 2014 I wrote a piece about my love for Grainger Market. In this piece I'm merging my original thoughts around the changes taking place.

I moved to Sunderland in the early 1980’s. The chill North-East wind cut through my soft southern skin, and even the seagulls seemed to sweep down on us, squawking their derision.

It was on Newcastle’s gritty atmospheric quay side and in the beautiful Grainger Market that I felt most at home. The market enthralled from the first.

I’ve always loved covered markets, and Grade One listed Grainger, with its stained glass and dignified shop fronts is a masterpiece of the understated. It’s one of the oldest covered markets in the UK, still going strong. The market was originally divided into a butchers’ market and separate vegetable market. It was named in honour of Richard Grainger, who led the redevelopment of 19th century Newcastle, in which the market was a key development.

The market is easy to find; it’s in the middle of Newcastle city centre with entrances on four sides. It’s like finding a covered market building at Oxford Circus. 

Under its bright porticos, Grainger Market caters to the needs of everyone. From locally grown leeks to dog chews, from coltsfoot rock to first communion outfits, rare teas and old vinyl. Amongst the many stalls/booths there’s a hair dresser, watch mender, opticians, shoe repairs, stationers, florists, and music shop.

The weighing house was originally for butchers meat. It’s now used by customers. Market stalwarts remain in place. Matthews Cheese shop sells a huge range of dairy. Coffee specialists Pumphrey’s still sells the best coffee in Newcastle, the wig shop is going strong and the iconic pet shop can’t be missed. There used to be a tripe stall. No more. Hunters Deli had obviously seen a gap in the market.

Marks and Spencer’s original penny bazaar with the original stained glass is one of the markets oldest stalls, opening in 1895. It’s the last surviving penny bazaar in the country, and the worlds smallest branch of Marks and Spencer.

There is still an air raid shelter underneath the building. Tours started up a few years ago to view the tunnels and there are plans for more along with a huge investment in the markets future.

Over the years I’ve returned to Grainger market there are always signs of change and gentrification. New shops and restaurants open, butchers and greengrocers close. It’s sad to return to find that the bookshop has closed, or that the icecream parlour relocated.

When I first wrote this piece there were;

9 butchers

6 green grocers

3 fishmongers

3 newsagents, including the wonderfully named ‘cheap tabs shop’ straight out of Viz.

Now there are 3 butchers, 4 greengrocers, 2 fishmongers.

More and more restaurants are moving in. Sometimes it feels as if they’re taking over but at the time of writing there are around 18 food and drink venues out of about 87 stalls. The fear is that the hot food stalls will increase as the butchers and greengrocers and fishmongers disappear.

Two images to sum up eating & drinking at Grainger Market. In one corner; corned beef pie at Cafe One2One. In the other; La Gamba’s vermouth menu

On an Easter Saturday, Cafe One2One was busier than the Spanish deli. There were as many people queuing to buy meat and vegetables as there were waiting patiently for their Chinese dumplings, samosa chaat or slice of pizza. There’s a proud realisation amongst devotees and locals alike that Grainger Market is a unique asset to be celebrated, looked after and preserved. Hot food stalls bring new people into the market. I hope they return to shop. 

Grainger Market

Grainger Street, Newcastle

9am to 5.30pm - Mon to Sat