Real or fake? Japanese food replica culture
Looks Delicious! A photo essay 目で味わう 食品サンプルの世界を探究する
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Many years ago, more years than I care to think about, I pitched a few ideas to BBC radio 4. One of them was a long term passion and curiosity; the world of food replica culture, mostly seen outside Japanese restaurants. I tried to research it but the information I found was limited, unless I could travel to Japan. The idea got shelved.
To my delight, Japan House in High Street Kensington is currently showing a rather wonderful exhibition focusing on the history and use of food replicas, and I urge you to go if you’re in London. It’s free, but I warn you, you’ll be starving by the time you leave.
In 1917, model maker Nishio Sojiro was asked to make food models intended for nutritional guidance.
1923; one of Japans first department store commissioned food replicas for an exhibition in their food hall. The rise in department store dining halls which served an array of dishes including foods from different countries influenced the increase in food replicas. Because of the large number of diners, a system emerged whereby customers would see the model and the price, and order inside the food hall.
As the number of food halls, restaurants and cafes increased after the Second World War, so the number of food replicas followed suit.
The exhibition follows the curve of the industry, showing the use of models, from restaurants to health specialists, schools, hospitals and more. How the models are made, the different forms, hand painted and carefully created.
It’s a fascinating way to present dishes from different regions in Japan, with 47 new displays - one from every prefecture - created specially for the exhibition and showcasing some of the wilder and wackier models made for competitions.
The detail is astounding. I envy train travellers their beautiful bento boxes. On the ground floor, before the main lower ground exhibition there's a seasonal sweet display, describing confections made for every month of the year.
Japan House has missed a trick, not putting in a temporary hot food offering to showcase some of the dishes but they do have a restaurant on the first floor.
Studio Ghibli has also been a long term passion. As a bonus, if you love their films too, here’s all the food sequences in every film.
Japan House. Looks Delicious! Exploring Food Replica Culture.
目で味わう 食品サンプルの世界を探究する
On now until 16th January 2025. Free admission.
This is a fun article. Wish I could see the exhibit in London.
Great reading! Do you remember my piece of sushi keyring brought back from Japan by a friend of yours? It was perfect, apart from being made of rubber!