Footnotes and postcards December 2025
Almost 100% gift suggestion free; wild salmon, dark fairies, Studio Ghibli and a woofcopia of dogs.
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Dear reader,
The countdown to 25th December is on; you’re probably besieged with Christmas to do list emails, things to buy, what to eat, so I’m not adding to them apart from a ‘not eat’ suggestion below. The last few weeks have been full of dental appointments; nothing says Christmas like root canal work. The most positive thing that came into my mind whilst the dentist was busy with the drill was; I can’t hear the tinnitus buzz…
Food news
It’s quite possible that you’re going to think I’m a food grinch; Christmas is often a time for buying and eating smoked salmon but would you think again? Caroline Bennett, whom I wrote about in a deep dive on farmed salmon has this to say;
‘‘Most of the smoked salmon sold in the UK is not wild, it’s farmed. A long-overdue reckoning with farmed salmon is only now becoming apparent to many of us – there are colossal costs when it comes to farmed salmon. This includes the environmental damage it causes on Scottish lochs; the heavy use of chemicals and antibiotics to control parasitic lice and disease; the high mortality rates in salmon farms averaging 25% (which would be inconceivable on land-based agriculture where 5% is the legal upper limit); and to top it all, the injustice of robbing poorer fishing communities in Africa of their fish to feed our burgeoning salmon farms, a form of modern day colonialism.’’
Say no to farmed salmon this Christmas and if you can; choose wild.
The latest report from Sustain’s Bridging the Gap project is great news, showing that it is possible to deliver climate and nature-friendly food to people on low budgets whilst supporting growers.
Looking for your closest farm shop or farmers’ market? Try searching on the Farm Retail Association website.
Wild venison burgers in stadiums & large event venues; a very positive step in the right direction, if the volume of wild venison eaten increases.
British farmer becomes ‘world’s northernmost olive oil producer.
Given the current state of farming and food security in the UK, it’s ironic to see this piece about Tesco calling for a national framework to bolster UK food security.
The fight to save beloved independent cafes in London
‘‘The Earthshot prize effectively equated veganism with sustainability. But while the two concepts can overlap, they are not the same.’’
The battle for Shepherds Bush Market “Hammersmith and Fulham Council refused the market ACV status stating that the application “fails to demonstrate why the markets are considered to be ‘social interests’ and not standard retail services”
I promise this is the only shopping/gift element; I totally adore Studio Ghibli films, especially the enchanting Spirited Away which my sister and I were lucky enough to see live when it came to the ENO last year. It’s a long term wish to visit the museum in Japan. If you’re a Studio Ghibli fan, the pop up Maison Ghibli shop will be in Kensington until 11th January 2026. 237 Brompton Road, SW3 2EP.
On Substack
The fascinating story of the woman you’ve never heard of who inspired The Wizard of Oz
A really useful post about kitchen formulas. I have a cache of precious organic gelatine sheets that are huge compared to the usual ones sold so any recipe that says ‘use x number of sheets’ makes my head explode.
A woofcopia of dogs…
And one of my favourite paintings broken down
Reading
Kitchen Table; Simple things done well; the cookbook inspired by Edinburgh bakery Twelve Triangles; I’m always drawn to books and food businesses that showcase the food suppliers they work with. Emily has recently joined Substack; her writing is like a warm hug on a cold day. Find her at Moments through food
Uprooting; From the Caribbean to the Countryside; Finding Home in an English Country Garden by Marchelle Farrell
“Time and tide and buttered eggs wait for no man.”: The Box of Delights because; Christmas, magic, possets and buccaneering rats.
In season
Stored winter squash, nuts, apples and pears. Quince. Cauliflowers. Rainbow chard, calabrese, purple sprouting broccoli, kale. Leeks, beetroot, carrots, celery, parsnips, cabbages, celeriac, spinach, Brussels Sprouts, radishes, sprout tops. Jerusalem Artichokes. The last green tomatoes. Wild game. Shellfish. Christmas poultry.
Growing
I hoped our chicories would be safe from the gastropods but no, they’ve helped themselves to two full beds of them, bless their cold little hearts. We’re down to the Brussels Sprouts, Jersey kale, PBS, collard greens, Russian and Red Ruffle kales and cime di rape.
The perennial Chinese artichokes (Stachys affinis) have been harvested with all the excitement of a below ground crop. They’re tiny but delicious; crunchy and nutty, even if they do look like white grubs. Also known as Crosnes, they’re part of the mint family and not related to globe, or Jerusalem artichokes. A handful have been replanted for next years crop. Perky green shoots from the onions and garlic remind us they won’t be harvested till Summer. Three cornered leek is spreading everywhere.
Our seed and planting order for next year is ambitious to say the least with as many perennials as we can squeeze in using the adage if it can be a perennial, it replaces the annual. The eagle eyed gardeners amongst you may spot Mark Diacono’s The New Kitchen Garden, an excellent resource, especially for listing seeds into categories such as unbuyables, expensive to buy and quick returns.
The revenge of the raspberry canes; a deeply embedded splinter during pruning, that won’t work its way out of my finger and the wonder of raspberries in December.
Cooking and eating
The quince finally met their maker. They’ve been magic’d into a ruby coloured jelly with cranberries, windfall apples and rosemary.
Collard greens, cooked down slowly with smoked bacon lardons.
The first sprout tops, piled into a mock pad Thai, seasoned with tamari, fish sauce, tamarind, maple syrup and lime juice.
A russet apple with mature, crumbly cheese.
Tomato, chilli and koji hot sauce has finally been pureed after two months fermentation. It tastes amazing; thank you Sam Cooper for the recipe and demonstration.
Viewing
Tessa Farmer at Victor Wynd Gallery, Hackney. If you like your Christmas fairies a little on the dark, wild and mischievous side. On till May 2026.
Also at the Victor Wynd Gallery…
Listening
A reimagining of Wind in the Willows told from the margins. Written by Tom Morton-Smith, best known for the RSC’s Oppenheimer and My Neighbour Totoro.
Eliza Carthy and Jon Boden, folk royalty at the wonderfully atmospheric Union Chapel in Islington last week for their enchanting Wassail. I’ve seen them perform many times, but never together. An unexpected highlight was Eliza talking about her father, Martin Carthy’s love for reciting Marriot Edgar’s humorous monologues, made famous by Stanley Holloway. In her best broad Lancashire accent and doing all the voices she read one of Martin’s favourites beautifully.
Thank you so much for reading this far, I can’t tell you how much it means to me. Do please like and comment, share with your friends,or recommend. If you love my writing; leave me a tip, and let me know what you’d like me to cover or write about. I’d love to hear from you.
I know that not everyone can stretch to paying a subscription. If you can, or if you’d like to gift a subscription for a month, or a year…You know how much I’d be delighted.
x Cheryl
Loved reading this Cheryl …the total antidote to Christmas lists! I managed to get some quince with my veg box, would you be willing to share your rosy jelly recipe? I’m a bit nervous about winging it as a quince newbie!
What a time of year - when chicory and chestnuts are at the height! Merry Christmas Cheryl, and thank you for the mention